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Shape guide

Diamond Shapes

Every shape has its own personality, sparkle and proportions. Explore all ten and find the one that feels like you.

01
Brilliant

Round Brilliant

The most popular and most brilliant diamond shape, engineered for maximum light return.

Developed from centuries of cutting refinement, the round brilliant's 57 or 58 facets are arranged to return as much light as possible to the eye. It is the only shape with a full cut grade on most grading reports, which makes quality easy to compare.

Facets
57–58
Ideal L/W ratio
1.00 – 1.02
Sparkle
Looks larger

Why people love it

  • Unmatched brilliance and fire
  • Hides colour and inclusions well
  • Timeless and suits every setting

What to look for

  • Highest price per carat of all shapes
  • Prioritise an Excellent or Ideal cut
Best in: SolitaireHaloThree-stoneStuds
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02
Modified brilliant

Oval

An elongated brilliant with round-like sparkle that looks larger than its carat weight.

The oval keeps the fire of a round brilliant in a graceful elongated outline. Its larger surface area makes it look bigger than a round of the same weight, and it flatters the hand by making fingers appear longer.

Facets
56–58
Ideal L/W ratio
1.30 – 1.50
Sparkle
Looks larger

Why people love it

  • Looks larger per carat
  • Elongates the finger
  • Brilliant sparkle

What to look for

  • Check for a visible bow-tie shadow
  • Choose a balanced length-to-width ratio
Best in: SolitaireHaloEast-west settingsPendants
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03
Modified brilliant

Princess

A square brilliant with crisp corners, bright sparkle and a modern feel.

The princess is the most popular square shape. Its pyramid-like pavilion creates a striking X-pattern of light and excellent brilliance, while its sharp outline gives a contemporary, geometric look.

Facets
57–76
Ideal L/W ratio
1.00 – 1.05
Sparkle
Looks larger

Why people love it

  • Very brilliant for a square shape
  • Good value per carat
  • Clean, modern outline

What to look for

  • Protect the four corners with V-prongs
  • Corners are the most vulnerable to chipping
Best in: SolitaireChannel settingsThree-stoneStuds
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04
Modified brilliant

Cushion

A soft square with rounded corners and large facets that create romantic, vintage fire.

Named for its pillow-like outline, the cushion has been loved for over two centuries. Its larger facets break light into bold flashes of colour, giving it a warm, antique character that pairs beautifully with halo designs.

Facets
58–64
Ideal L/W ratio
1.00 – 1.20
Sparkle
Looks larger

Why people love it

  • Rich fire and romantic look
  • Rounded corners resist chipping
  • Available square or elongated

What to look for

  • Styles vary widely between cutters
  • Can show colour more than a round
Best in: HaloVintage settingsSolitaireThree-stone
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05
Step cut

Emerald

Long, clean step facets create a hall-of-mirrors effect with elegant flashes of light.

The emerald cut trades sparkle for sophistication. Its parallel step facets and large open table produce broad flashes of light, and it has an understated, Art Deco glamour that suits minimalist settings.

Facets
50–58
Ideal L/W ratio
1.30 – 1.50
Sparkle
Looks larger

Why people love it

  • Elegant, architectural look
  • Looks larger than a round per carat
  • Often good value

What to look for

  • The open table shows inclusions: choose higher clarity
  • Less sparkle than brilliant shapes
Best in: SolitaireThree-stoneEast-west settingsArt Deco designs
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06
Step cut

Asscher

A square step cut with deep cut corners and a mesmerising windmill pattern.

Created in 1902 and a favourite of the Art Deco era, the Asscher is a square step cut with high crown and deep pavilion. Looking down, its concentric squares draw the eye into the centre of the stone.

Facets
58
Ideal L/W ratio
1.00 – 1.05
Sparkle
Looks larger

Why people love it

  • Distinctive vintage character
  • Corners are protected
  • Beautiful depth and clarity

What to look for

  • Shows inclusions easily
  • Looks smaller per carat than most shapes
Best in: Vintage settingsHaloSolitaireCocktail rings
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07
Mixed cut

Radiant

The outline of an emerald with the fiery brilliance of a round.

The radiant combines the clipped corners of an emerald cut with full brilliant faceting. The result is a bold, sparkling rectangle or square that is also durable and easy to set.

Facets
70
Ideal L/W ratio
1.00 – 1.35
Sparkle
Looks larger

Why people love it

  • Exceptional sparkle
  • Trimmed corners resist chipping
  • Hides inclusions well

What to look for

  • Check depth: deep stones look smaller
  • Ratios vary from square to rectangular
Best in: SolitaireHaloThree-stoneSide stones
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08
Modified brilliant

Pear

A graceful teardrop that combines the round and the marquise.

Rounded at one end and pointed at the other, the pear is both classic and distinctive. It is worn with the point toward the fingertip to lengthen the hand, and it makes a striking pendant or drop earring.

Facets
58
Ideal L/W ratio
1.45 – 1.75
Sparkle
Looks larger

Why people love it

  • Unique and elegant
  • Looks large per carat
  • Slims the finger

What to look for

  • Symmetry matters: check the shoulders
  • Protect the point with a V-prong
  • Possible bow-tie
Best in: SolitaireHaloPendantsDrop earrings
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09
Modified brilliant

Marquise

A dramatic boat shape that looks the largest of any diamond per carat.

Legend says the marquise was commissioned by King Louis XV to resemble the smile of the Marquise de Pompadour. Its long, pointed outline gives it the largest face-up area of any shape for its weight.

Facets
56–58
Ideal L/W ratio
1.75 – 2.25
Sparkle
Looks larger

Why people love it

  • Largest look per carat
  • Very flattering on the hand
  • Distinctive and regal

What to look for

  • Both points need protective prongs
  • Look for symmetry and a minimal bow-tie
Best in: SolitaireVintage settingsSide stonesCluster designs
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10
Modified brilliant

Heart

The ultimate symbol of love, cut with brilliant facets for real sparkle.

The heart is one of the most technically demanding shapes to cut. A well-cut heart has a clear cleft, evenly rounded lobes and a crisp point. It shines best at half a carat and above, where its outline is easy to see.

Facets
56–59
Ideal L/W ratio
0.90 – 1.10
Sparkle
Looks larger

Why people love it

  • Romantic and unmistakable
  • Brilliant sparkle
  • Meaningful gift

What to look for

  • Choose 0.50 ct or more for a clear outline
  • Symmetry is critical
Best in: SolitairePendantsHaloAnniversary rings
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At a glance

Compare every shape

Sparkle and face-up size are relative to other shapes of the same carat weight.

ShapeCut styleFacetsIdeal L/W ratioSparkleLooks larger
Round Brilliant Brilliant 57–58 1.00 – 1.02
Oval Modified brilliant 56–58 1.30 – 1.50
Princess Modified brilliant 57–76 1.00 – 1.05
Cushion Modified brilliant 58–64 1.00 – 1.20
Emerald Step cut 50–58 1.30 – 1.50
Asscher Step cut 58 1.00 – 1.05
Radiant Mixed cut 70 1.00 – 1.35
Pear Modified brilliant 58 1.45 – 1.75
Marquise Modified brilliant 56–58 1.75 – 2.25
Heart Modified brilliant 56–59 0.90 – 1.10

See the shapes in person

Photos never do a diamond justice. Visit us in Surat or ask for a video call to compare shapes side by side.

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